Works great in my RV4. First flight yesterday with the ANR mod installed in my DC10-13.4. Get the connector cable and save drilling a hole in your headset. Installation steps in instructions are sometimes out of order.

Jeff P Verified Purchase

ANR RETROFIT HEADSET KIT

I have had the Headsets Incorporated (HI) ANR kit installed in my David Clark (DC) H10-13.4 for two years now. I installed the kit myself. I will comment on the individual phases of ownership below. Purchase: Made a phone call to be sure of any options available. This was pleasant, quick and easy. Installation: I am an experienced electronic engineer with thousands of build projects and repairs to my experience. I am also an audio engineer so I have a clue. The HI written instructions were just ok, but the color wiring diagram made it easy to complete the installation. I ended up reusing the DC foam from over their speakers in addition to everything HI furnished. It filled the small remaining void between the speaker and my ear. I also made some small deviations in construction that in no way effect the final product, like using shrink wrap in the connections. Its just me, Im fussy. Even though the HI speakers are held in assembly with the DC earcups with the finest double-sided tape I know, I wish another type of fastening was used but they have held up to frequent use for two years. Early use: At first I was getting squeals and other oscillations and was not happy with my purchase. It always seemed to happen about an hour into my wearing them. This happened multiple times in flight and I had to turn off the ANC power to stop the very loud squeal. Phone call to HI customer service: Got right thru to the main engineer at HI. Knowledgeable and helpful, we discussed possible solutions. In the end he offered to take them in to adjust them at no charge. Very positive experience. But I never sent them in. Read on please. Recent experience: The squeal and other sounds were caused by my unfamiliarity with how to wear the modified headset. Simply making sure the soft earcup was centered over my ears with my entire ear comfortably tucked into the open area (and not squished against my head by the gel pad) solved any and all issues. I have worn them for up to five hours in a day. Most people put these DC type of headsets on and squish their earlobe between the cup and their neck and call it good. Even PNR headsets will eventually cause your ear lobes to ache due to reduced blood flow. Just tuck your entire ear in the open area and these HI ANRs work wonderfully. Final thoughts: Simply knowing how to wear the headsets solved all issues. I have used these HI ANRs for hundreds of hours. I tow gliders, and in 24 months have about eight hundred tows in my log book (all with the HI kit) so you know I have put in some hours while benefiting from HI ANR. Installation was easy for me. Customer service was willing to help. The kits are reliable. I just had to learn how to place the headset on my noggin. John

Great support during installation from manufacturer

Joe D Verified Purchase

ANR RETROFIT HEADSET KIT

Works very well

I installed this kit in my SPH-5 helo hemet. It was a bit tedious, but that was to be expected. This made a huge difference in the amount of noise in my PA-12 160. I used to have to use earplugs on anything other than local flights. As far as the installation goes, you need to be deft with your soldering or it isnt going to go well. It isnt electronics, but you need to be careful and follow the instructions, which I found well-written. I had one problem (my fault) because of reading the instructions wrong, so I called the manufacturer. The owner answered the phone. There you go.

Thanks to SCOTT J VALENTI I have ordered the AMP cable. I would have been pissed without it. Note to Spruce: you guys rock but you need to keep up with stuff like that. Quite a few times I ordered stuff that requires other items and its either not mentioned at all or its mentioned like: see below for XXX part and there is nothing below...

Purchased a kit last week for a 25 year old David Clark H10-30 headset. For the first time, I spent about an hour and a half on this installation. The results were remarkable. I am very pleased that I purchased this retrofit kit, the David Clark gel ear seals, new wide headband and a M7/DC retrofit microphone kit. Total cost of new parts is about half the cost of a new David Clark ANR headset.

In the end, this kit met all my expectations. However, the instructions were confusing and in some areas contradictory. As an example in the last pages you are instructed to insert foam insulation under the wiring before making the connections. Another instruction required a butt splice of four wires that later had to be cut and soldered differently. Most of the confusion comes from the inclusion of the AMP cable in the kit. A good thing. Best to simply follow the color wiring diagram on the supplemental sheet for mono or stereo installation..

Wesley K Verified Purchase

ANR RETROFIT HEADSET KIT

Jai installé ce kit dans mes vieux écouteurs David Clark H10-80. Les instructions sont adéquates mais doivent être soigneusement examinées, relues, comprises et suivies. Cétait un peu fastidieux, mais il fallait sy attendre. Les schémas de câblage colorés ont été très utiles. Je n’avais jamais fait de soudure électronique avant mais avec un peu de pratique et de patience on y arrive très bien. J’ai acheté le câble AMP ce qui donne une conversion finale de très belle finition et facilite aussi le travail. Les performances sont bonnes. Le bruit des basses fréquences est considérablement réduit, cependant, il y a un compromis à faire en ce qui concerne la réduction de bruit en mode passif. Ce nest pas surprenant, car le H10-80 utilise beaucoup de mousse dans les oreillettes, tandis que la conversion utilise une seule pièce denviron 3/16 dépaisseur qui est insérée sous les fils. Les instructions indiquent que les modules ANR ont besoin despace dans la coquille pour fonctionner correctement, donc d’ajouter plus de mousse nest pas vraiment une option. La réduction passive du bruit est toujours correcte, mais nest pas aussi efficace quun David Clark non modifié. Par conséquent, je recommande fortement demporter une batterie de rechange. Dans lensemble, la mise à niveau est un très bon rapport qualité-prix si vous possédez un casque passif.

I purchased this in order to upgrade a David Clark H10-40 headset to ANR. I fly a 7KCAb Citabria, usually with the window open and it is pretty noisy. I recommend getting the optional AMP cable as it simplifies the installation and is much cleaner over all. The directions are about 90% complete, but the customer service was superb with a real person answering the phone and connecting me to a technician who was very helpful. For the H10-40 installation, what was missing in the instructions and wiring diagrams are: - what to do with the clear coated large diameter RF drain from the mic boom (connect it to the black ground wires from the power cord, crossover cord and the black wire to the left ANR unit) and - how to connect the white and yellow microphone wires (white to white and color to color - yellow to red in this case). The technician was also helpful with the conversion to the M7 microphone. The M4 uses a brown colored cap connected to the positive and negative mic wires to boost the signal. The M7 mic doesnt need it so you just remove it. Otherwise if you retain the M4, connect the wires as described above, but with the cap connected. Once assembled, I took it up and found that the ANR is very effective with a truly impressive reduction in low frequency noise. However, theres no free lunch. I compared my converted H-10-40 to a standard H10-40 and noted that the converted unit gives up some passive attenuation. Its not surprising, as the H10-40 uses a lot of foam in the ear cups, while the conversion uses a single piece about 3/16 thick that is worked around under the wires. The instructions indicate the ANR sets need space in the cup to work properly, so more foam isnt really and option. The passive noise reduction is still ok, but isnt as effective as an unmodified David Clark. Consequently, I recommend carrying a spare battery. Still, Im impressed enough that I plan to convert my other three H-10-40s.

A great alternative to the very expensive ANR headsets out there. A little work involved, but satisfying results. I would get the optional power cord if doing it again, as the way they have you combine the two cords is kind of cheesy. Be sure to read a step or two ahead of your operation, because at one point you start soldering, only to find out that there was another step you should have taken before having to undo everything you just did. This was my second set, so I believe in this product.

Instructions are adequate but must be carefully reviewed and followed. You have to decide which paragraphs to skip since instructions cover an optional power harness. I skipped too much at first. It would be very helpful if the power cable was stripped to the proper 3 inch length in the kit as this is a slightly difficult operation. The colored wiring diagrams were very helpful. Make the 3 wires for the electronic module plenty long and trim them to a suitable length just before soldering to the modules. I installed this kit on a 40 year old David Clark H10-30. Performance is good, making a significant improvement in low frequency noise from a 200 HP IO-360 with 2 blade propeller. A good seal to your ears is important and was possible wearing eye glasses using gel ear seals. I compared side by side to a Bose A20. The Bose A20 is significantly better but significantly more expensive. Overall, the upgrade is a very good value if you own a passive headset.

I just received my kit today. The parts are all there and packaged in a professional manner. The instruction booklet seems real good. However, I already have an issue. The instruction booklet mentions an optional AMP cable. Hmm, why didn't I get this? Oh, it's because I didn't know it existed! Why would someone spend $159 on the ANR kit, but not an extra $33 on the AMP cable? So, I ordered the AMP cable just a few minutes ago. Save yourself some hassle and order them at the same time, OK? Or maybe you're smarter than I am, and already noticed the AMP cable is listed on the ANR retrofit page, and you've already added it to your shopping cart. Good for you. There is a nice list of tools required, in the instruction booklet. They are: 1. Fine tip soldering tool ( 20w) 2. Small wire cutters 3. Small screwdriver set 4. Sponge to clean solder tip 5. Butane lighter to heat shrink wrap 6. Continuity tester (optional) Also, if you don't get the AMP cable, you'll need a drill with 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 bits. (Another reason to get the AMP cable!) Just thought I'd list the tools here so you can make sure you have them, ahead of time. Thanks.